Pour Over Coffee Bot: Structure

With the gimbal design complete, I wanted to knock out a quick structure to raise the assembly off the tabletop that fits around the coffee mug and pour-over cone. Because the dispenser extends beneath the bottom of the primary chassis, this allows for easier testing, and if all goes well, a framework to utilize for the final build.

coffeecalipers

As a Fusion 360 Evangelist, I find myself working on a wide range of unique projects, so my colleagues are accustom to less-than-typical things going on at my desk. That being said, measuring a pour over coffee cone with digital calipers furrowed a few brows.

Calipers in hand, I started modeling the coffee mug and pour-over cone. These are somewhat tricky shapes, but with some Revolves, Shells, and Fillets, they can be knocked out in no time.

Here are some animations showing the modeling process:

CoffeeMug  CoffeeCone.gif

Next, I positioned them directly beneath the dispenser, and raised the gimbal assembly to an appropriate looking height. Once in place, I extended the perimeter of the gimbal assembly to fit around the coffee mug and pour-over cone and added some features for more threaded inserts.

Screen Shot 2017-10-25 at 9.28.30 AM.png

Next, I designed a base that vertically aligns with the gimbal assembly and has holes for threaded inserts on three sides. With these in place, I modeled some simple 1/8″ laser-cut panels to hold the entire structure together with some M3 machine screws. Rectangular panels would work just fine here, but I figured to have a bit more fun with them considering I was using a laser.

Screen Shot 2017-10-25 at 9.32.42 AM

I 3D printed the gimbal assembly and base components out of PLA, and they turned out great. I frustratingly couldn’t fit all the components on the build plate of my Replicator 2, but you can’t win ’em all. Next, I went over to the Autodesk Pier 9 workshop and laser-cut the panels out of 1/8″ birch plywood.

IMG_3270 2.JPG

I assembled the dispenser and gimbal assembly, and pressed in all the M3 Brass Threaded Inserts with a soldering iron.

All that’s required for the assembly of the structure are twelve M3 x 8 socket cap screws and washers, and a hex key.

The inserts make a rather awful screeching sound as they’re being expanded into the plastic. Don’t worry, it’s their way of letting you know they’re gripping the plastic.

I really like this design, as it allows for simple modifications during the prototyping process. If I need to change the primary structure, it’ll be really easy for me to laser-cut new panels and mount them to the existing 3D printed components.

Next up: Writing Arduino code to draw circles and spirals!

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